(B-33" W-29" H-35")Vintage 1930s 1940s green dress from Germany. MEASUREMENTS (approximate): Bust 33" Waist 29" Hips 35" Length 42" This dress is an interesting "make do and mend" piece! It looks like it was originally a 1920s flapper style dress that was reworked. one sleeve is made of several pieces of fabric. On the inside seams of one sleeve you can see where there were hand stitched buttonholes (this is on an inside seam, so not visible when worn). The panel behind"> (B-33" W-29" H-35")"> (B-33" W-29" H-35")Vintage 1930s 1940s green dress from Germany. MEASUREMENTS (approximate): Bust 33" Waist 29" Hips 35" Length 42" This dress is an interesting "make do and mend" piece! It looks like it was originally a 1920s flapper style dress that was reworked. one sleeve is made of several pieces of fabric. On the inside seams of one sleeve you can see where there were hand stitched buttonholes (this is on an inside seam, so not visible when worn). The panel behind"> (B-33" W-29" H-35")"> (B-33" W-29" H-35")Vintage 1930s 1940s green dress from Germany. MEASUREMENTS (approximate): Bust 33" Waist 29" Hips 35" Length 42" This dress is an interesting "make do and mend" piece! It looks like it was originally a 1920s flapper style dress that was reworked. one sleeve is made of several pieces of fabric. On the inside seams of one sleeve you can see where there were hand stitched buttonholes (this is on an inside seam, so not visible when worn). The panel behind"> German Green Dress "Make do and Mend" <br> (B-33" W-29" H-35")-lanefamilies Skip to content

German Green Dress "Make do and Mend"
(B-33" W-29" H-35")

Marsoni M251S
Sale price$49.00
Pay 4 payments of $12.25 a month.Shop Pay
Get it in 3 business days with 1 day shipping. Friday, May 29
German Green Dress "Make do and Mend"
(B-33" W-29" H-35")Vintage 1930s 1940s green dress from Germany. MEASUREMENTS (approximate): Bust 33" Waist 29" Hips 35" Length 42" This dress is an interesting "make do and mend" piece! It looks like it was originally a 1920s flapper style dress that was reworked. one sleeve is made of several pieces of fabric. On the inside seams of one sleeve you can see where there were hand stitched buttonholes (this is on an inside seam, so not visible when worn). The panel behind
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4.6 ★★★★★
Based on 346 reviews
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R
Verified Purchase
Rhbones
Houston, US
★★★★★ 5
Works for my 2011 115hp Etec
Size: For 75-250 HP
Exact fit and cheaper than a trip to a repair shop. Make sure you have the proper gasket sealer, a good scrapper that's not going to dig into the sealing surface, and tools for the job. I went on my computer and downloaded a video that walked me through the process. I'm a mechanic by trade but wanted to ensure everything was correct. I've been running the motor now for a couple of months. Peeing just as it's supposed to. No more delivering, waiting, and retrieving my boat from the shop for its routine service. Just follow your owner's manual to make sure you do all the necessary maintenance.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on February 8, 2025
C
Verified Purchase
Chelsey R
Charlottesville, US
★★★★★ 5
Great replacement
Size: For 5.5HP 6HP 7.5HP
Works as it should. Easy to swap out.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on August 12, 2025
D
Verified Purchase
Dan
West Palm Beach, US
★★★★★ 5
Works
Size: For 60 65 70 75 HP
Works great
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on May 21, 2026
B
Verified Purchase
Billy kinney
Belleville, US
★★★★★ 4
Great product
Size: For 85-300 HP
Complete rebuild kit for $38 and great quality and fast delivery
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on August 30, 2025
G
Verified Purchase
grog
Omaha, US
★★★★★ 5
If pump doesn't seem to work
Size: For 85-300 HP, Size: For 85-300 HP
Hi....I apologize it took me a while to get back to you with my results. Here is what I discovered about the pump and will also apply to some of the other comments I read in the reviews with people not getting the pump to work: 1.) I removed the pump to check the proper direction of the impeller and it was correct as can be seen in the photo. 2.) I built a pump shaft attachement so that I could operate the pump with a power drill. 3.) I attached the water muff to the unit and tried to pump water.....it wouldn't do so. What I did see however was that even at high hose discharge and small leakage at the muff I could not fill the water cavity in the housing. 4.) I installed a strap around the muff and tightened it very tight and THEN at high hose pressure I was able to get the cavity to fill with water. 5.) At that point I activated the drill and was able to get the pump to actually pump water. I then removed the pump housing and removed the O-Ring that resides on top of the impeller, reassembled and it would not pump water. Since the O-Ring sits higher than the original does I wanted to make sure that it was necessary to have it in the pump. 6.) I reassembled the engine and kept the tight strap on the bottom and finally it pumped water into the engine. My conclusion that you can reply to other buyers if they have a problem: Do NOT underestimate 2 things....1.)the lack of ability of the pump to draw water up AND 2.)the fact that if the muff leaks it will NOT fill the cavity when common sense says it should. This was a 120hp Johnson. The engine bottom must be immersed fully or the muff must be very tight on the lower unit for the pump to function. Please feel free to post this if you wish.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on August 12, 2024

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